Oct. 31.] THE NEW ZEALAND GAZETTE. 3171

Extras on Cape.

Cape over 18 in. to 24 in. in length in deepest part .. .. .. 1
Cape over 24 in. in deepest part .. .. .. 1
If cape lined over 18 in. .. .. .. 2
Making band round neck .. .. .. ¾
Shoulder seams .. .. .. per pair ½
Sleeve-tops .. .. .. .. 1

ULSTER.

Plain single breasted, 54 in. long, back seam to 3½ in. under waist, with single box-pleat, side bodies, cut under the arm, one dart in front, eight holes, plain sleeves, lined to waist, plain coat, collar, and lapels .. .. 30

Extras.

If lined part throughout, same as jacket .. .. .. 2½
Clasp and chain .. .. .. .. ½
Frock-coat back in ulster .. .. .. 2½
Long slit in back, with tuck .. .. .. 1½
Gathered back in ulster .. .. .. 2
Fluted back in ulster .. .. .. 4
Elastic or tapes on pleats .. .. .. each ¼
Elastic or tapes on pleats, if covered .. .. .. each ½
Box fly in front or back .. .. .. ¾
Long lapels to bottom .. .. extra on jacket 1
Facings on front of skirts .. .. .. ¾
Tabs formed in lining, or sewn on with button-hole .. .. each ½
Breast-cuts to bottom, extra on jackets .. .. per pair ⅓
Revers to bottom, extra on jacket extras .. .. per pair 1
Lined throughout .. .. .. .. 6
Fly from top to bottom of ulster .. .. .. 2½
Pleats in front or back of ulster from collar to bottom .. .. each 2
All other extras same as jacket.
Newmarket to start at more than plain ulster .. .. .. 2
Ulster without seams below hips to start at less than ulster .. .. 3

PLAIN VEST.

Plain vest, five seams in body, two darts in each front, eighteen holes and buttons, plain stand collar, start .. .. .. 12½
Loose-fronted vest not fastened in shoulders, seye and side seams, as above 7½
Loose-fronted vest, fitting and fastening shoulders and sides .. extra 2½

Extras.

Double-breaster .. .. .. .. 2
Strap and buckle .. .. .. .. ¾
Extra side bodice in vest, including linings .. .. per pair ¾
Holes in vest for waistband, same as other holes.
Slits at side or back .. .. .. per pair ½
Puffs at side or back .. .. .. per pair ½
Making front skirts on vest, and putting on .. .. 1½
Making roll or step collar, and putting on .. .. 1½
Matching fronts, cuts, and front of collar, if on double-breasted .. .. ¾

LONG VEST LET IN FOREPART.

Marking and putting in canvas, linen, and pressing the fronts .. .. ¾
Turning in front edges and bottom .. .. .. 1
Lining .. .. .. .. ½
Pressing and putting on .. .. .. 2
—
Total to include hooks and eyes .. .. .. 4¼
—
Making and putting on plain stand collar .. .. .. 1½
If planned, fitted, and cut by the maker .. .. extra 1½

TOP VEST.

Planning, making, and fitting .. .. .. ¾
Putting in canvas, linen, and pressing .. .. .. ¾
Edges, raw .. .. .. ½
Pressing and lining .. .. .. ½
Making and putting on plain stand collar .. .. .. 1½
—
Total .. .. .. .. 3
—
Edges turned in .. .. .. .. extra ¾
Top vest, if sewn in .. .. .. .. extra ¾

BOTTOM VEST.

Planning, making, and fitting .. .. .. ¼
Putting in canvas, linen, and pressing .. .. .. ¼
Pressing, lining, and fastening in, with four holes and buttons .. .. 1¼
—
Total .. .. .. .. 1¾
—
Bottom vest, if continued round bottom to side, and fastening in .. extra 1½
Edges turned in .. .. .. .. ½
Edges raw .. .. .. .. ¼
All other extras same as jackets.

BASTING JACKET, VEST, BODICE, OR ULSTER.

First basting Eton coat, two sleeves .. .. .. .. 1½
Basting jacket or bodice, one sleeve, all seams basted once, length 26 in. .. 1½
Basting jacket or bodice, one sleeve, all seams basted twice, length 26 in. .. 2
Basting jacket or bodice, two sleeves .. .. .. .. 2½