3168
THE NEW ZEALAND GAZETTE.
[No. 81

DRESS-BODICE.

Preamble: Single breasted, tight fitting, seven body-seams, two darts in each breast, plain sleeves, plain stand collar, edges bluff or stitched once, eighteen holes and buttons .. .. .. .. 21

NEWMARKET COAT.

D.B. plain coat, collar and lapels, six holes, side bodies, quarter-bodies, one dart or cut in front, flaps in waist, lapels sewn on, length 40 in., start .. 34

ZOUAVES.

For making Zouave fronts to waist .. .. .. .. 6
For making Zouave fronts to waist, and continued round back .. .. 9
For making Zouave on sleeves to elbow .. .. .. per pair 4
For making Zouave on sleeves and elbow .. .. .. per pair 5½

ETON COAT.

For making Eton coat, plain sleeves, no collar, plain whole back, one cut in front, no side bodies .. .. .. .. .. 12

EXTRAS.

For making fly to jacket .. .. .. .. .. 2

Skirts and Basques.

Making and putting on plain skirt or basque not exceeding 5 in., one pleat in back, one row of stitching .. .. .. .. 2½
If morning-coat back .. .. .. .. .. 5
Pleated skirt or basque .. .. .. .. .. 4½
If unlined .. .. .. .. .. less 1
For every 10 in. or part over 5 in. .. .. .. .. 1
For drawing in skirt-hips and padded.. .. .. .. per pair 2

Edges.

Each extra row of stitching round edge .. .. .. .. 1
Edges corded or bound .. .. .. .. .. 2½
Edges facings felled on binding .. .. .. .. 1½
Edges back-stitched on one side .. .. .. .. 3
Edges back-stitched on both sides .. .. .. .. 5
Edges flat-braided .. .. .. .. .. 3
Edges, if bound, corded, or stitched round bottom .. .. 1
Stitching and braiding edges to include round bottom and sleeves. Braiding to be paid one hour extra for every 10 in. in length of coat over 26 in.

Straps, Belts, and Pleats.

Preparing and basting on straight strapping not exceeding ¾ in. in width.. .. .. .. .. .. .. per yard 1
If the person who makes the job does his own machining (stitching), in addition to the above .. .. .. .. .. per yard ¼
Preparing, basting, and sewing by hand, straight strapping not exceeding ¾ in. in width .. .. .. .. .. per yard 2½
Preparing, basting, and sewing by hand straight strapping of silk or velvet, not exceeding ¾ in. in width .. .. .. per yard 2¾
Over ¾ in. in width .. .. .. .. .. per yard 3¼
Corners or roundings on strapping .. .. .. .. each ¼
Plain waistbelt, lined, with hole and button .. .. .. 1½
Plain waistbelt of webbing, and tacking on three seams .. .. ½
Making and putting on plain belt not exceeding 2½ in. in width .. .. 2
Making wide belt (plain), three whalebones, and five hooks and eyes .. 3
If with pleats .. .. .. .. .. .. 5
Each additional fantail pleat in back, with lining .. .. .. 1
To apply also to Norfolk jackets.

Wadding, Haircloth, and Canvas.

For padding wadding in shoulders .. .. .. .. .. 1
For padding wadding on top of breast, with three rows of stitching .. 1
For padding wadding through back to waist .. .. .. 1
For putting rolls of wadding in sleeve-heads .. .. .. ½
For putting haircloth on shoulders to top of breast-cut .. .. 1
For putting haircloth on shoulders to top of breast-cloth and continued to waist .. .. .. .. .. .. 2½
For putting haircloth in back .. .. .. .. .. 1
For putting haircloth between breast-cuts only .. .. .. 1
For putting haircloth or buckram in skirts .. .. .. 1
For putting haircloth or buckram in skirts of habit shape .. .. 1½
For putting haircloth in sleeve-heads .. .. .. .. ¾
For putting canvas round bottom, 4 in. or under .. .. .. ¾
For putting canvas round bottom over 4 in. .. .. .. 1
For putting canvas in all seams under the bones .. .. ½
For putting canvas in sleeve-heads .. .. .. .. ¼
For putting canvas in sleeve-hands .. .. .. .. ¼
For putting canvas in lieu of haircloth to top of breast-cut .. .. ¾
For putting canvas in lieu of haircloth to top of breast-cut and continued to waist .. .. .. .. .. .. 1¼
For putting canvas in back .. .. .. .. .. ½
For putting canvas between breast-cuts only .. .. .. ½

Slits or Vents.

Each slit or vent in any part of the garment not over 6 in. .. .. ½
If in the sleeves .. .. .. .. .. .. ½
Each slit or vent, if over 6 in. in length, extra per inch .. .. 1½
All openings to scallon or diamond shape in fronts of any part of the garment to count as slits.