3158
THE NEW ZEALAND GAZETTE.
[No. 81

CHESTERFIELDS, COVERTS, ETC.

Planing and marking in shoulders, gorge, side seams, top and bottom of back and edge—Side seams—Three pockets with or without flaps—Canvas and stays—Padding lapels—Stay-tape—Pressing seams, pockets, and canvas—Seaming, lining, and piecing facings—Bastings over—Edges bluffed, bound, or stitched—Felling in all linings—Shoulder seams—Holes and buttons in breast—Making plain sleeves, with one row of stitching—Putting in sleeves—Pressing of breasts—Joining coat—Cutting, stitching, and padding collar—Blind vent at hands, not exceeding three buttons—One-ply wadding and stitching round scye, and back-lining—Cuts in gorge, not exceeding 2 in.—Pressing and covering collar—Putting on collar—Putting on hanger—Pressing off.

Hours.
First class .. .. .. .. .. .. 26
Second class .. .. .. .. .. .. 24
Third class .. .. .. .. .. .. 23

If no back seam, less ½ hour.

Extras.

Double-breasted or fly .. .. .. .. extra 2

Stitching.

Felled or stoted edge .. .. .. .. .. 1
Second row of stitching in front edges, including collar, and sleeves .. 2½
Ditto, with fly .. .. .. .. .. 3
Ditto, round flap, and including top of same .. .. .. each ¼
Extra row of stitching round sleeves .. .. .. each ¼
Single-stitched seams .. .. .. .. .. 6
Ditto, if no back seam .. .. .. .. less ¾
Ditto, if machined .. .. .. .. .. 2
Double-stitched seams .. .. .. .. .. 12
Ditto, if no back seam .. .. .. .. less 1
Ditto, if machined .. .. .. .. .. 2
Single-stitched lap-seam .. .. .. .. .. 8
Ditto, if no back seam .. .. .. .. less ¾
Ditto, if machined .. .. .. .. .. 3
Single-stitched or bound round bottom .. .. .. .. 1
Second row of stitching round bottom .. .. extra 1
If bottom turned up and lining felled above binding .. .. extra ½
Double-stitched lap seam .. .. .. .. .. 12
If machined .. .. .. .. .. 4
If no back seam .. .. .. .. less 1
Pricking edges to count same as double-stitching, as in frock and dress.
Slated seams same as double-stitching.
Stitching down in seam or behind seam of front edges to keep facing in position .. .. .. .. .. each ½

Strapping.

Strapping Chesterfield coat-seams .. .. .. .. .. 18
Ditto, covert coat seams .. .. .. .. .. 16
If no back seam in the foregoing strapping .. .. .. less 2
If strapping by machine turned in .. .. .. .. 6
Ditto, no back seam .. .. .. .. .. 5
Stitched on both sides of seam .. .. .. .. 10
If no back seam .. .. .. .. .. 9
Facing round bottom with cloth .. .. .. .. .. ¾
If strapped by machine, raw edge .. .. .. .. .. 4

Braiding.

Flat braiding on one side only on front edges .. .. .. .. 3
Ditto, double to waist .. .. .. .. .. 4½
Ditto, double to bottom .. .. .. .. .. 6
Ditto, collar .. .. .. .. .. ¾
Ditto, sleeves .. .. .. .. .. ¾
Ditto, down vents on sleeves .. .. .. .. ½
Ditto, flaps .. .. .. .. each ¼
Ditto, welts .. .. .. .. each ¼
Ditto, bottoms, one side only .. .. .. .. .. 1
Ditto, back-stitched on .. .. .. .. extra 2

Cord.

Cord on front edges, collar, and sleeves .. .. .. .. 2½
Ditto, down vents of sleeves .. .. .. .. .. ¼
Ditto, on each flap .. .. .. .. .. ¼

Pockets and Flaps.

Outside breast-pocket, with welt or flap .. .. .. .. 1½
Outside ticket-pocket, jetted .. .. .. each ¾
Inside breast-pocket, jetted .. .. .. each 1
Inside ticket-pocket, jetted .. .. .. each ¾
Ticket-pocket, with flap or welt .. .. .. .. 1
Each hole and button in pocket or flap .. .. .. .. ¼
Waterproof pockets, in addition to time for any other pocket .. .. ½
Inside breast-pocket, plain .. .. .. .. .. ¾

Cuffs.

Cuffs cut off .. .. .. .. .. .. 1
False cuffs .. .. .. .. .. .. ½
False cuffs, if filled up .. .. .. .. .. 1
Elastic in cuffs .. .. .. .. .. .. 1