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Now I felt the loss of my compass. Well known land marks in every direction, and unable to take bearings.

May 11th.—We had up to this period been following the river running through Acheron Valley which from subsequent enquiry I have every reason to believe was the Waipapa or Big River of the whalers. But now leaving it running to the N.E., we returned a short distance and took the stream I before mentioned as joining from the S.W. The valley through which it ran we named the Valley of Hope. Keeping along it we mounted a hill from which the stream derives its source. On the south side of this hill another river takes its rise, and runs in a south-westerly direction. We descended a spur (clothed with black birch bush through which there is not any difficulty in leading a horse) on the west side, and came to the bed of the River which is one of the sources of the Waihou. Keeping this for eleven miles we entered an extensive plain, (Hamilton Plain). The grass (very good) interspersed with fern; and a great deal of manuka grew in patches. A large swamp, in which we nearly left the mare, occupied the centre; various mountain streams ran through it into the Waihou. It would prove valuable for cattle stations. Returning towards what we supposed to be the continuation of the same river described above as the source of the Waihou, we came to our surprise upon an entirely different river running in a direction exactly opposite to that of the former, which it joins where we met it. At this spot, both turned suddenly to the eastward, at directly right angles to their previous courses, and flowed down to the sea as one broad river the Waihou. Some idea may be formed of its size from the fact of our crossing the southerly stream in seven distinct channels.

On nearing the shore the best channel became suddenly deep. Taken by surprise I was carried off my legs, and immersed; but scrambling, came up again, and perceived a trusty stick held out to me. Seizing it, I was dragged on shore by the same hand and the same stick that had once before done me the same good service—those of my friend Dashwood.

Other plains I have no doubt exist to the southwest; but for three days we could scarcely see the outline of the hills through the fog, although not three miles distant.

We now wended our way along a sweet pretty valley. The river which was in one broad stream surrounded numerous islands covered with wood. On the hills, the flax, fern, and ti tree was the general herbage; but the spear grass and Wild Irishman still made their appearance in a diminutive form. In some large bottoms of fifty acres close to the bed of the river which I suppose from their appearance to have been at some period inundated; and in the gullies, between the hills, the soil was particularly rich, producing flax of an extraordinary height and size.

Issuing from this valley we burst upon the finest grazing plain I have ever seen in this or any other country. I know it is the fate of travellers to be accused of exaggeration; but I care not, as long as I call attention to the splendid inland plains. I will therefore attempt a description from the hasty observations I was enabled to take.

The plain surrounded by low undulating grassy hills backed by higher ranges—is bowl shaped, and contains not less than 200,000 acres (I believe much more). Two rivers, the Waihou and Hurunui, run through it parallel to each other, at eight miles distance. The grass is of the best description, and the soil in many places fit for cultivation. It has a perfect natural drainage, is well sheltered from all winds, has no swamps—but also I much fear, no wood.

I may as well at once say, that through this plain over some easy low hills to the south, is the direct route to Port Cooper. But we—ignorant of the country, with rapidly diminishing provisions, without compass, and in thick weather, deemed it more prudent to make Motunau by the coast, where we knew there was a station.

Keeping the Waihou for five miles further we entered a gully but soon finding it impassable, took to the hills from which we obtained a view of the sea. Descending into another extensive plain with more swamp, but equally good grazing capabilities as the last, we crossed some more hills and reached the coast. These hills by the sea side are covered with fern, flax, ti-tree, toitoi, and manuka.

May 23rd.—Finding the cliffs perpendicular and no possibility of gaining the beach, we returned a part of our last day’s walk and taking a southerly direction came to a hill from which we espied a fire on the plain below. Lighting another in answer to it, we remained sometime on the look-out for sign of man; but none appearing, we made the coast near a salt lagoon to the north of the Hurunui. About 8 o’clock in the evening we heard a cooeeing and shortly had the pleasure of welcoming Mr. Caveill of Motunau, who had been on the look-out for us for some time, and had followed our track for three days. Piloted by him across the Hurunui (a rapid deep and dangerous river) we arrived at his house, where we obtained all we required, food, rest, clothes, and money.

From thence leaving Harris, we started for Port Cooper. Losing ourselves on the plains by keeping too close to the sea, a violent snow storm overtook us, and getting entangled in the swamps over which no horse could venture, we wandered for two days, on the third almost starved from want of food and cold (we had not had a fire since we started, not having any tinder or matches with us) we shouldered our blankets and leaving our horses made through the swamp to Kaiapoi.

In due time we reached the Township of Lyttelton, which, with the plains I suppose are too well known to render a description from me necessary, neither is it the purport of this letter to give one. Suffice it therefore, to say, that all I had heard in their favour did not come up, in my opinion, to the reality. I was surprised and delighted at the extent of the land, and richness of the soil, the amount of useful work done, and the lasting, solid, yet neat manner in which it has been executed. It does very great credit to all concerned.

And now, sir, in conclusion, I have only to add that Mr. Dashwood and myself both regret our inability to furnish more satisfactory information of the country adjacent to that through which we travelled, but the loss of our compass in an utterly unexplored and unknown country, the shortness of the days, the continual thick weather, which prevented our seeing a mile before us for days, and the storms of snow, sleet, hail, and rain, rendered that which may henceforth easily be accomplished in ten days, a difficult and laborious journey of six weeks.

I have purposely omitted all adventures merely personal; my aim being, not to write a letter, but an attempt to give a clear, succinct account, useful to future travellers, which with the kind and able assistance of Mr. Hamilton of the Acheron, who knows the greater part of the country over which I travelled after I lost my compass, I hope in a short time to make more comprehensible by a correct map.

I have the honor to be, Sir,
Your obedient servant,
(Signed) W. MUNRO MURCUTT,
Capt. 84th Regt.

His Honor
The Superintendent,
Nelson.