Expedition Journal Continuation




ings at the end of my letter. The country then
again changed; the river increased by small mountain streams—east and west, and hemmed in by
precipitous hills, became deep and rapid and difficult, and in many places dangerous to cross. Im-
possible as it was, however, to walk along its high
rugged sides, or make any way through the solid
phalanx of spear grass and Wild Irishman, which
in these parts grew to a size and strength underem’t
of by those whose shins have not come in contact
with this most formidable enemy, we were obliged
to wade for miles along the edge of a shelf of rocks
from which the mule slipped twice, spoiling all our
biscuit. Had it been summer, the narrow bottoms
might have been burnt, but at best, this gorge will
always deserve its name of the “Devil’s Grip.”

After five miles of this amphibious travelling the
valley again opened, and Mr. Dashwood and myself
having clambered a hill, discovered, much to our
delight, a beautiful valley running north and south.
A river which had its source in some small hills at
our feet, wound through it. The width of the valley I should suppose to be about four or five miles.
On each side ran low undulating hills, backed to
the east by a high mountain range, the very picture
of a perfect sheep grazing country. At the distance
we were, to judge of the quality of the grass was
impossible: though the height of the valley above
the level of the sea perhaps rendered this part too
cold for good grass, and unfit for sheep. We had the
honour to attach your name, Sir, to this valley. And
it is my firm belief, that ere long the great south
road, will traverse Richmond Valley. Looking
down it from the hill on which we stood, no impedi-
ment whatever could be discerned. Mr. Dashwood
believes it to be the Kaiwaratowa. I am not suffi-
ciently acquainted with the geography of the north-
east coast to hazard an opinion, but I feel convinced
it is the same valley I before mentioned as having
distinctly traced from Mount Shepherd running at
the base of the Kaikouras. It is separated from
Acheron valley, (as I propose to call the valley along
which we journeyed, after H.M.S. Acheron,) by easy
low hills, over which you might now drive a cart,
and thus Starvation Hill, the Devil’s Grip, and our
enemies, the prickles, would be avoided, if the
river does run into the sea at N.P. it may be the Awa-
tara, or the Blind river immediately to the south of
the Awatere. But this is mere supposition. It
ought to be immediately explored. Mount Impey
bore S.S.E., a little S., the Kaikoras N.N.E.

May 3rd.—Again we were obliged to take to the
river, the banks being so densely covered with our
well armed vegetable opponents, as to be impassable
for man or beast. We attempted to fire, but alas!
in vain; it was too wet. The valley had now
gradually increased to the width of two miles with
improving grass which might do for cattle. A large
river (the Newman) ran into Acheron vale from
west. The east bank had been fired.

May 4th.—Harin and myself had to return six
miles after the horses which had strayed during the
night. Mr. Dashwood in the meantime ascended
a low range of hills to the west, and discovered a
valley which I named after him. He described it
as grassy—half a mile wide, and its course S. by
W. and N. by E. It ran into Acheron valley
E.S.E.

The river along which we travelled had become a
considerable stream, and it behoved us to be careful
where we crossed. Cogitating on its bank on the
possibility of fording at the point where we then
stood, the horse and mule suddenly dashed in, and
proved the impracticability by swimming across, and
leaving us in the lurch. Some distance further
down, we managed with much difficulty to ford it,
and regain our steeds. The hills for about seven
miles to the west are low and undulating.

A high snowy range then rises and runs parallel with
Acheron Vale, from which the rivers and streams
appear to derive their source.

This part of the country would be well worth ex-
ploring. Two houses could carry provisions for
three months; ample time during long days in fine
weather to examine the valleys, and to survey the
country east and west from the hills which are all
easy of ascent.

The soil and grasses were much improved, and
good cattle stations might be formed, but I fear the
immense quantity of spear grass, and other prickles
would prove an obstacle for sheep.

May 5th.—The horses recrossed the river during
the night, and Mr. Dashwood and Harris returned
for them. I climbed a hill, but owing to the fog
and clouds could make but little out. A river from
N.N.E. ran into Acheron Vale at W. A high
snowy range ran N.W. by N. to S.E. by S. The
fog precluded my seeing more.

On the highest peak of the hill I had ascended
was a bed of small broken stones, to all appear-
ance of granite, of a very considerable depth. I tried to
get at the soil with a stick without success. They
gave one the idea of stones put on a recently finished
Macadamized road—they were broken to the size
of those used in England for private park roads,
and were smoothed as if with a shovel. The whole
top for some distance down was covered with them.
Wild Geranium and
Some shrubs—Aniseed, Parsley, Ducks, both black and blue, Weka’s,
Cranes, Paradise Geese, Quails, Grasshoppers, and
Flies, seemed to denote improving country; and to
hint that we were nearing the coast; at least so
we interpreted it. On an expedition of this kind
there ought always to be a dog and gun amongst
the party. As it was, our dog caught us more
Weka’s than we could eat; but ducks, Paradise geese,
and quail, would have been dainties we could
have daily dined off had we had a gun.

The first certain signs of Maories we discovered
on the 9th—a quantity of firewood collected and the
remains of a whari gave certain evidence of an old
Maori encampment. The valley at this part was
not more than three or four hundred yards wide, in
places much less. The hills on both sides were
covered with snow. The river turns at right angles
to the east another large one (the Poynter), run-
ning into it from the west. On regaining an emi-
nence I discovered a valley three quarters of a mile
wide. The hills on either side were covered with
grass, and in the distance for the first time since
leaving the Wairau—was bush of black birch and
manuka. The valley ran due east and west.

We had now evident signs of the banks of the river
having recently been burnt, probably by natives
passing along the coast. The soil still continued
improving, and travelling easy; and here I have to
record an irreparable loss. When midway across
the river I found it deeper, and the stream more
rapid than I had anticipated; so, to prevent my note-
book getting damaged, I held up my blue shirt and
dropped my compass from the pocket—the only
one with the party. I have taken correct bearings
of the valley for forty miles; the remainder is guess-
work. A stream from the north, another from S.W.,
joined the river.

Acheron Valley now became impassable, so Mr.
Dashwood and myself set out on a surveying expe-
dition. Having arrived at the top of the highest
hill, we were rewarded for our labour by a bird’s eye
view of a most magnificent country. To the south
we commanded at least one hundred miles in a
direct line. The sea between the coast on the
plains and Bank’s Peninsula had the appearance of
a river, and a succession of extensive plains to the
S.W. might easily be mistaken for one vast prairie.
To the N.E. and E., Mr. Dashwood (who was on



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Online Sources for this page:

VUW Te Waharoa PDF New Munster Gazette 1850, No 14





✨ LLM interpretation of page content

🏛️ Memorandum of an Expedition into the Interior of the Southern Island of New Zealand (continued from previous page)

🏛️ Governance & Central Administration
11 June 1850
Expedition, Southern Island, Inland Route, Wairau, Port Cooper Plains
  • Mr. Dashwood, Explored Richmond Valley
  • Harris, Returned for horses