50

decided upon performing that part of my journey on
foot, with a single companion, whilst for as possi-
ble to guard against the contingencies of snows or
floods, and to facilitate any explorations that I might
find advisable in the comparatively open countries of
the Acheron or Clarence, I sent round a party with
horses and provisions to proceed by the Awatere over
Barefell Pass, and to await me on the Acheron, five
miles above the confluence with the Guide; for this
latter service I was so fortunate as to secure the co-
operation of Messrs. McCabe and Knight, whilst for
the former I had taken me an old and expe-
rienced hand. An accident, however, obliged
that Mr. A. C. Clifford, who most
opportunity volunteered to supply his place.
It was on the afternoon of Monday, 26th March,
that Mr. A. Clifford and myself entered the Black
Birch Bush on the upper Wairau, on the west side of
the river, opposite to the "Top House." We en-
camped that night about five miles from the entrance
of the bush. The next day we proceeded about ten
miles, and the following morning, after a walk of some
three or four more, we stood in the centre of an open
valley, at the confluence of two main branches of the
Wairau, one flowing from S.W. and the other from
S.E. Hitherto our course had been nearly south for
about 18 miles, excepting only an easterly inclination
within the last two miles. The valley, mainly covered
with black birch forest, is very level, and walled-in on
either side by rocky and precipitous mountains.

Along the sides of the river, lie at intervals small
open flats of grass, of good quality, but now, however,
in places rough with spear grass and prickles: these
open spaces become larger and more frequent, as the
head of the valley is approached and a higher level
attained, until, finally, the black birch is found, rather
in clumps and patches than presenting the appearance
of a continuous forest.

In travelling up this valley, we found the bush
difficult and tedious, owing to the great number of
young trees that were in places growing up. We
consequently crossed the river several times, and kept
to the shingle-bed and often flats as much as possible;
but I am of opinion that a road might be carried the
whole way along the west side of the valley, with
perhaps one or two side cuttings. However, in any
case, it would be unnecessary to cross the river more
than twice, once below and once above a place where
the river, whose fall is always considerable, forms a
kind of rapid, about 13 miles above the open valley at
the "Top House."

A rough estimate, I should say that a good line
of road might be made by cutting through about eight
or nine miles of very easily cleared bush land,
emerging at intervals upon open ground. There is
very little, if any, soft or swampy ground, and the
tributary brooks that fall from the mountains, with
the exception of two from east and west, just above
the rapids, are few and insignificant. The road might,
however, be made passable by more frequent devia-
tions into the open spots, at a very much smaller out-
lay of labour and capital than I have indicated, whilst
a somewhat greater amount might be very advan-
tageously expended upon it.

On the morning, then, of March 28th we found
ourselves halted at a clump of black birch trees at
the junction of the two branches of the Wairau.

They flowed out of a formidable barrier of moun-
tains in our front, whose rocky peaks rose darkly
above us, patcheld here and there, in spite of the long-
continued summer's heats, with dazzling dots of
snow.

A spur, more rounded and grassy than the rest,
descended from the very centre of the chain to the
junction of the two streams.

We pitched our tent, left our loads, and ascended
by this spur to the top of the range; light mists
floating about the summit slightly impeded our view,
yet did not from an altitude of nearly 7,000 feet above
the sea level, prevent us from ascertaining that the
inland grass country lay below us.

At our feet, to the S.E., lay a valley dotted with
miniature lakes or pools; beyond and around it, grassy
and bare-topped hills and narrow valleys. In the dis-
tance, bearing about east, we made out the southward
Kaikoras amongst clouds and mists, with the Barefell
Pass range. Immediately on our left, the S.E.
branch of the Wairau flowed out of a rock-bound
gorge, whilst to our right little was visible but craggy
and snow-patched mountains, in which the valley of
the West Wairau seemed soon to break and lose
itself.

Turning back to re-descend the mountain to our
camp, the eye followed the dyke-like valley of the
upper Wairau, with its dark forest, its river bends,
and its patches of yellow grass, cleaving straight
through a chaos of rocks, crags, and mountains,
till it reached the open country at the "Top House."

Early on the following morning we resumed our
loads, and a little after noon found ourselves once
more on the summit of the mountain. We had taken
this course, because, whilst neither of the river
branches promised a good line of road, we know that
after traversing the mountain range, and viewing it
from either side, we should probably be better able to
judge of any pass that might exist.

The northern ascent of the mountain had been
steep and long, but not rugged; the descent on the
southern side proved worse. Turning a little along
the ridge to the left, we descended a steep shingle slip
of some 300 or 400 feet, and followed, down a gully
with loose stones, alpine plants, and finally black
birch, found ourselves, by about 4 p.m., on the
S.E. side of the range, and to our joy, once more upon
the banks of the East Wairau, which here pierces
right through the mountains, and leads directly to our
camp of the morning.

Although the day was drawing to a close, I deter-
mined not to rest till I had ascertained the practica-
bility of the gorge. I followed it down till it opened
out into the valley we had left that morning, about a
mile above the junction. Having done so, late at
night I returned to our camp. The gorge, remarka-
ble for the precipices that rise above it, for huge
isolated blocks of rock, that at first sight threaten to
obstruct the river's course, and picturesque patches of
black birch that hang about their sides, presents no
real impediment to the traveller or drover. A few
blows with the tomahawk, a fire-stick judiciously em-
ployed, and, should the throw be high, a little siding
over a low bank or two, is the most that can be
needed, though the gorge being very narrow, its aspect
may at first appear discouraging for a mile or two.
(Course E.)

After receiving two tributaries from the eastern
mountains, the gorge opens, and another two miles
(course S. by W.) will bring the traveller into
Tarndale.

I gave the name of Tarndale to the valley imme-
diately south of the great barrier of mountains, so
unexpectedly penetrated by the East Wairau. It is
situated between the valleys of the Acheron and
Clarence; its northern extremity, about two miles
broad, rests upon that block of rugged and inaccessi-
ble mountains, which, stretching westward from
Mitchell and Dashwood's Waihopai and Acheron Pass,
is penetrated, as I have already described, by the upper