✨ Geographical Survey Report
462
fertile soil, and everywhere the surface is covered with a dense and luxuriant scrub, which, having never been burnt off, or broken down by cattle, and being composed of quick-growing shrubs of no great strength, subject to be blown down and replaced by new growths, the dead and the living form an impenetrable jungle, so as to make walking to any distance altogether impossible. On the west coast the land is so much exposed to the prevalent winds, and the hills are so steep and broken that, for the present at all events, it may be set down as absolutely unavailable, except a few hundred acres at Mason’s Bay; but, on the east side, and north of Port Pegasus, especially in the vicinity of Lord’s River and Port Adventure, the ridges become longer and rather lower; the size of the timber increases; the Rimu, Totara and Kahikatea appear, and the whole country becomes rather more practicable, though still steep and broken, and everywhere covered with dense scrub to the water’s edge.
At Port Adventure there is a small settlement, now chiefly peopled by half-castes. Portions of the hills have been more or less cleared, and the extreme luxuriance of the grass which has spontaneously grown up, attests the productiveness of the soil and climate. Proceeding on towards Paterson’s Inlet, the land again becomes rather higher and steeper, but still carrying forest trees, though of no great size. A little land in the south arm of Paterson’s Inlet seems capable of cultivation, and a few small spots all along the extensive shores of the harbour, might hereafter invite settlement (aided, as these spots will be, by the convenience of communication by water) but the area of available land is very small.
The principal arm of Paterson’s Inlet receives a considerable river, the Ohekia, which flows through the only plain in the island. This valley is full ten miles long, with an average breadth of about three miles, and contains 12,000 or 15,000 acres of flat land, and about half as much more in the easy slopes of the hills on each side; a great portion, perhaps one half of the flat is void of scrub, apparently having been burnt off at no very remote period; the remainder of the scrub would no doubt easily be destroyed by fire, and by feeding cattle, but the character of the land in the flat is very inferior; it is, in fact, a mere sand-drift covered with a thin peaty soil. The summits of the long, low parallel ridges are dry but poor, and every bottom is occupied by swamp. The slopes at the side, however, have a good soil, and will make some desirable farms, and no doubt by frequent burning and close feeding, with perhaps a little labour here and there in clearing the water-courses, the flat will so far improve as to afford good feed for stock.
On the north side of Paterson’s Inlet, three saw mills have been erected, and one of them has been worked pretty extensively. The timber sawn is exclusively Rimu, and of very small size. The trees are thinly scattered among the rata and scrub, but as the land rises steeply from sheltered and easily navigable waters for many miles, the timber is easily got down and floated to the mills.
The two peninsulas which narrow the mouth of the harbour seem to have been the favourite haunt of the hardy adventurers who, attracted by the whales and seals which formerly greatly abounded on these coasts, took up their lonely abode, nearly thirty years ago, on this spot. Many of those still remain, though the original object of their advent has long since disappeared, and the growth of the Colony in their vicinity has increased their disabilities without adding anything to their wealth and comfort. The original settlers are now aged men, but they are generally surrounded by half-caste families, who constitute a little community which has grown up entirely without aid or care from the Government, and which is remarkable for the general good conduct of its members. I find that very few of these old residents have prosecuted claims to the land on which they reside, which they originally occupied by the consent of its native owners, and which they have always considered as their own. Though they cannot now assert any legal title, I trust that whenever the native title to the island at large is extinguished, steps will be taken to secure the inheritance of these spots for their families. It would indeed be unfortunate if the advent of the Government should have the effect of depriving of their homesteads these earliest colonists; and if these numerous half-caste children should be left landless in the land which their fathers were the first Europeans to explore, and of which their maternal ancestors were the sole possessors.
North of Paterson’s Inlet, a belt of one or two miles in depth from the coast, extends, with few interruptions, to Saddle Point, consisting of ridges generally of no great height, and of which the greater portion might be brought into cultivation.
Port William being a good harbour, very easy of access, and a most convenient port of call for vessels wind-bound in Foveaux Straits, presents greater in-
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Chief Surveyor's Report on Stewart's Island
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🗺️ Lands, Settlement & Survey15 February 1864
Survey, Stewart's Island, Geology, Gold, Minerals, Land Use, Settlement
Southland Provincial Gazette 1864, No 12