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the wind so that we were able at last to enter Chalky Inlet by the south passage after passing between Table Rock and the Balleny Reef, both of which dangers are quite conspicuous in daylight, and form good guides for determining the exact position of a vessel entering either of the two great sounds.

When within Gulche’s Head, which divides Preservation from Chalky Inlet, we were sheltered from the sea, and only got the wind in flaws. Partly sailing and partly towing we passed the white cliffs of Chalky Island which remind one of the Isle of Wight; and rounding the Garden Islands at 11 a.m., soon after anchored in the capacious and land-locked harbor of Southport. As we lay in shore the anchorage, the lead gave 16, 13, 9, 7, fathoms, and then the word “let go” was hardly given, when we were nearly aground in 6ft. water, with a soft mud bottom—having got on to a bank deposited by some small streams which enter the Bay at this place.

The gale continued from the S.E. for several days after this date, but we only saw it as a dense bank of cloud, hurrying rapidly through Foveaux Straits to the westward, while we were enjoying most delightful weather, having clear sunshine during the day, followed by cold bracing nights. In the woods on the north of the ports we found traces of an encampment of not more than a few months’ date, where six or eight persons had pitched their tent for several days. They must have been on their return from a long trip. I should think, as they had left old clothes and worn out boots behind them; likewise a small bag of duck shot, which we appropriated. On the opposite side of the Bay we also found some very old tracks, and the initials P. R. cut on a tree, and at a short distance found carved on a tree, “Ladybird, March, 1862,” near which a number of trees had been felled for firewood. Southport, which is so named in contradistinction to Northport, which is on the opposite side of the Inlet, is one and a half miles long, and half a mile wide. It communicates with Chalky Inlet by two channels, one of which is narrow and only suited for boats. The main channel is 200 yards wide, but contains several sunken rocks, and turns off from the Inlet at such an awkward angle that it would be difficult for a large sailing vessel to get into Southport, although, if once in, she could not find a better and more suitable anchorage—the best place being just within the entrance, on the left hand side.

The south end of the port is named Lee Bay, the shore being exposed to the N.W. gales. The beach there is shingly, and rises 50 feet to a level and finely timbered flat, on walking across which for a distance of one and a half miles, I came out on the shore of Preservation Inlet. From here I got Henry to point out the place on Coal Island where the other Maoris would be encamped with their boat, but could receive no indication of their having arrived at the rendezvous. The extent of this level neck of land between the two inlets does not exceed 1000 or 1200 acres in extent; but there is a great deal of the surrounding country that is neither too steep nor too elevated to be turned to account. The flats are covered with a fair growth of timber, comprising red, black, and a few white pines, totara, mapau, iron wood, carmachi, birch, and many other trees of the southern parts of the Province. Excepting the supplejacks in a few places, the forest is quite open, and much more easily traversed than I expected. It is the shrub growth around the shores which is so remarkable for its beauty and diversity. No artificial arrangement could effect the rich and graceful variety of some of the natural groups of shrubs that clothe the little headlands and rocky islands. It is probable that the Garden Islands were so named from their excelling in this respect. Two days were spent in examining Southport and the rocky promontory that divides it from the main inlet, and in taking astronomical and magnetic observations. On the 20th June (which, by the way, despite all the delays, was just one month from the time we left Otago Heads,) I started for the examination of the upper part of Chalky Inlet, in the whale boat, taking with me three men and about one week’s provisions. Those left in the yacht built a raft for the purpose of communicating with the shore while I had the boat away, but it answered so badly that I determined to have a dingy built the first opportunity that offered.

The pull up the Sound was enchanting, the sea being as smooth as glass, the mountain tops sharp and clear, and the afternoon warm as a summer’s day. I kept close along the eastern shore, touching whenever a rocky exposure demanded my attention, till I reached Cunaris Sound, which is the eastern of the two arms into which Chalky Inlet is divided at a distance of ten miles from its entrance. I then struck across to the other arm, which is named in the chart Edwardson’s Sound. Although the coast is for the most part rock-bound, there are little shingly bays at intervals, on which in fine weather a boat can be hauled up for the night. Between Southport and Cunaris Sound, a distance of six miles, a low range of hills rises from the shore, separated by the valley of the stream which enters Southport from the high mountains that lie between Chalky and Preservation Inlets. The forest which densely covers these hills is principally of black birch, with a sprinkling of remu or red pine, excepting close to the water’s edge, where there is an immense variety of evergreen shrubs. The tops of the distant mountains above, and altitude of 3000 feet are, however, quite free from trees, and covered with grass. Further up the Sound, where the mountains are over 5000 feet in