Geological Expedition Report




The re-descent from the high terrace to the level of the Waiau is as abrupt as the ascent from Ligar’s. After following that river for a few miles we again ascended to the higher plains and skirted the flank of Takitimo Mountains, upon which there is good pasture, although of a character that indicates that the climate is dry and resembles that of the plains in the interior and northern part of the Province. On the slope of the mountains there is a good growth of birch forest, but no other kind of bush appears to grow in this district.

At Mr. Gillow’s station, where we passed the night, I was informed that the winter is often very severe on these plains, and that night frosts in the summer months are so common that the raising of garden crops is precarious. On the 3rd of June we at first skirted the left side of the Mariroa River, on the opposite side of which there are high cliffs of stratified clay capped by a stratum of coarse shingle and large angular blocks of rock. We then crossed over a northern spur of the Takitimo, which is partly composed of a tuffaceous conglomerate enclosing fragments of basalt and dark colored slate. These conglomerates are associated with clay shales, which are finely terminated, and contain regular layers of clay iron-stone from two to six inches in thickness, containing fragments of fossilized vegetable matter and streaks of coal, but no distinct fossils were observed. In some places these strata are traversed by veins of white calcined spar. At the highest part of the saddle, over which the track passes, we left our horses and ascended a spur of Mount Hamilton for 3000 feet, crossing strata of conglomerate and coarse sandstone, which lie at a high angle, and passing under the shales just described, but resting against the blue slates of which the Takitimo Mountains are principally composed. We have, therefore, the same succession of strata occurring as that displayed on the northern flank of the Kakanui Ranges, so that the better qualities of brown coal may be expected to occur in this district towards the base of the conglomerate formation.

From the peak which we reached we had a splendid view of the Manapora and Te Anau Lakes, with their long sinuous arms penetrating far into the recesses of the gloomy looking mountains to the westward. After returning to our horses we followed down a branch of the Oreti to the eastward. The change in the vegetation on this slope is very marked, the fine nutritious grasses that clothe the terraces of Te Anau basin giving place to the coarse red snow grass, which grows in large bunches, leaving the soil bare between them, or only sparsely covered with tufts of the large leaved celinea, or cotton grass, being an indication that the snow water lodges a long time on the surface during the spring months.

I am familiar with the varied aspects of the vegetation throughout the Province on different exposures and different altitudes, but as I have never seen the change so abruptly marked as here, where there is only a slight physical barrier, I am inclined to attribute it mainly to a change in the nature of the soil consequent on the presence of a superficial drift, which covers a great part of the southern extremity of the Island, but has not extended into the inland basins, the formation of which was accomplished at a later date. This drift is well displayed in the sections along the creeks, which have cut deep channels through the terrace plains. It is of a dull red colour, and consists of stiff clay mixed with large boulders of the syenite and conglomerate rocks, the clay having been derived from the terminated shales on which it rests. On reaching the Oreti River, which is bounded on the east by a formal terrace 170 feet in height, we learned that some diggers had been washing for gold on the opposite slope, in a gully descending from the Eyre Mountains, but that they had not obtained any large quantity. I have not as yet seen any trace of the foliated and quartziferous schists to the south and west of the Wakatipu Lake, but it is not improbable that they may reappear on the southern flanks of the Eyre Mountains, in which case gold may be expected to occur.

Proceeding southwards from the Oreti we crossed the low hills that bound the plains, in order to reach the valley of the Aparima. These hills consist of the same conglomerate sandstones and shales as at Mount Hamilton, and which still preserve their high dip and W.N.W. strike. Against them, to the south, I believe the limestone strata dip at a low angle and contain abundance of their characteristic fossils. The structure of the country to the south is concealed by heavy superficial deposits of clay and gravel, to understand which would require a minute examination, and would no doubt throw great light on the later tertiary geology of this extremity of the island.

I returned to Riverton early on the 5th June, and finding that the Maoris had arrived on the previous day, with the kind assistance of Captain Howell, succeeded in engaging a crew of eight men to accompany my expedition, on the understanding that they were allowed to go as far north as Jackson’s Bay, and there leave two of their number who wished to return to their native district. They were also to be allowed to hunt seals for their own profit at any time when I did not require their services. I moreover engaged a native seaman named Henry, who was strongly recommended as being well acquainted with the West Coast, and from having made several voyages to California and elsewhere in whaling vessels, was able to act as one of the yacht’s crew.

I was detained in Riverton, bargaining with the Maoris and by other delays, until the



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Online Sources for this page:

VUW Te Waharoa PDF Otago Provincial Gazette 1863, No 274





✨ LLM interpretation of page content

🌾 Geological Expedition to the West Coast of Otago (continued from previous page)

🌾 Primary Industries & Resources
19 October 1863
Geological exploration, West Coast, Otago, Report, Expedition
  • Gillow, Station owner
  • Captain Howell, Assisted with Maori crew
  • Henry, Native seaman