the Tongariro system is a great Solfatara on the north-western slope of the range. The hot sulphurous springs of that solfatara are often visited by the natives on account of the relief they experience in respect to their cutaneous diseases.

A grand impression is made upon the traveller by those two magnificent volcanic cones,—Ruapahu, shining with the brilliancy of perpetual snow,—Tongariro, with its black cinder-cone capped with a rising cloud of white steam;—the two majestic mountains standing side by side upon a barren desert of pumice (called by the natives, One-tapu,) and the whole reflected, as by a mirror, by the waters of Lake Taupo.

LAKE TAUPO is about 28 English miles long, and 20 broad. This lake is surrounded by elevated pumice stone plateaus, about 2000 feet above the sea, and 700 feet above the lake. The Waikato river, taking its rise from Tongariro, flows through the lake, traversing the pumice-stone plateaus on either side. In accordance with the names I have already proposed for the Middle and Lower Waikato Plains, the Taupo Country will form the “Upper Waikato Basin”

It is one of the most characteristic features in the structure of the Northern Island, that, from the shores of Taupo lake, an almost level pumice-stone plain—called Kaingaroa Plain—stretches at the foot of the East Cape range, with a very gradual descent to the coast between Whakatane and Matata. A plain which, though now presenting a sterile appearance, will, I hope, at no distant day, be converted into fine grassy plains, capable of supporting large flocks of sheep.

In a similar way, a higher volcanic plateau, consisting of trachytic tuff and breccia, and various other volcanic rocks, stretches in a more northerly direction to the East Coast, between Maketu and Tauranga, the farthest extremities of which reach close to the Auckland District. On one side of Hauraki Gulf, the Coromandel range is covered with trachytic breccia, and again, on the West Coast, the same rock forms the coast-range from Manukau to Kaipara. This extensive plateau is intersected by many deep valleys, the sides of which are characterised by a succession of remarkable terraces. The same plateau is also broken in many places by more or less regular trachytic cones from 1000 to 3000 feet high. That you may become acquainted with the geological character of such mountains, I will mention several examples, the names of which are well known amongst European settlers. To this class of mountains belong Karioi on the West Coast, near Whaingaroa, Pirongia on the Waipa, the regular cone of Kakepuku between the Waipa and Waikato, Maungatautari on the Waikato, Aroha on the Waihou, Putauaki or Mount Edgecombe on the East Coast, and many others. The only active mountain which belongs to this class is Whakari or White Island, in the Bay of Plenty, a solfatara like the active crater of Tongariro.

(*Mr. David Burn, in his account of “A Trip to the East Cape,” says:—

In about an hour after passing Flat Island, the snowy vapour upon White Island began to be discernible. By 1 p.m. we were in immediate contiguity with this remarkable island, passing quite close to its southern extremity. As we made our gradual approach, its aspect was of the most singular description. Except on its northern point, to which the sulphurous vapour does not seem to reach, it is utterly destitute of vegetation; there are patches of growing underwood; but in every other direction, the island is bald, bleak, and furrowed into countless deep-worn ravines. After we had passed it a short distance to the eastward, the capacious basin of the crater, with its numerous geysers roaring and raging, exposed its sulphurous bosom to our eyes and nostrils. If the outer and western sides of White Island be blank and furrowed, its inner circle is chased, as it were, in a rare and picturesque manner,—the sides of the hills, from their lofty mountains, assume to the view, combed into innumerable longitudinal ridges of a florescent bronze of brilliant and variegated hue.

Of this island, Captain Drury, of H.M.S. Pandora, gives the following description in the “New Zealand Pilot”:—

“White Island, or Whakari, is about three miles in circumference, and 860 feet high. The base of the crater is one and a half miles in circuit, and level with the sea. In the centre is a boiling spring about 100 yards in circumference, sending volumes of steam full 2000 feet high in calm weather. Around the edges of the crater are numberless smaller geysers sounding like so many high pressure engines, and emitting steam with such velocity, that a stone thrown into the vortex would immediately be shot in the air.

“Here and there are lakes of sulphurous water, dormant; but the whole island is so heated as to make it difficult to walk. From the edges of the crater the scene below is only to be compared to a well dressed meadow of gorgeous green, with meandering streams feeding the boiling cauldron; but on approaching, we find this green to be the purest crystallised sulphur.

“No animal or insect breathes on this island, scarcely a limpet on the stones, and 200 fathoms will hardly reach the bottom within half a mile of its shores.”

Being under the lee of the island and in smooth water, Captain Bowden, in the most obliging manner, hove the steamer to, and, lowering one of the quarter boats, conveyed us on shore to enjoy a personal inspection of this grand natural curiosity. There are two spots at which a landing may be effected, at the openings of the outer base of the crater; by a very little exertion in clearing away some of the boulders, the landing may be rendered perfectly easy; but although, this day, the water was smooth, still there was such a swell that judgment and caution were requisite to pick out a spot where best to escape the rollers that tumbled on the rough and broken beach.

Never shall we forget the grand displays which we beheld in this sulphurous cauldron. Its paintings fresh from Nature’s hand—its lake of gorgeous green—its roaring jets of stormy vapour—are things to be witnessed, difficult to be described; but surpassing all these, and as if their central attraction, there was a fountain, seemingly of molten sulphur, in active play, which shot a column of wide spreading green and gold into the scorching atmosphere. The beauty of this fountain was surpassing, and we were under the impression, that from its energy, the volcano was more than commonly active in its workings. We were very circumspect in our approaches, as the surface in places was soft and yielding, and we knew not to what brimstone depths an unwary step might sink us. Our difficulty in walking, therefore, arose less from the heat, though that in places was great, than from the apprehension of sinking too far in the soft crustaceous surface, from which diminutive spouts of vapour would emit, as if to resent our intrusion. Wherever we thought the ground at all unsafe, we sounded our way by hurling large stones to see what impression they would make, and we adventured or avoided proceeding accordingly.